The worst thing I hate about being on holiday somewhere is that eventually, your body clock adjusts to the local time which means you slowly become lazier each day. After the previous day’s activities, I simply did not want to wake up but time is money when you’re on holiday, so a lie-in I did not have. My right foot was also aching horribly, so I really should have taken it easy but I still had so much to see and do.
The plan for the day was to visit Ginza, Roppongi, and Odaiba, before meeting Jimothy and Keiko for dinner. As per usual, I had my usual cigarette and iced tea before heading to the station. In a slight twist, I opted to have some breakfast in the form of KFC. There was a branch right next to Ochanomizu station so I figured I’d sample some of Colonel Oji-san’s finest. For some odd reason, KFC in Japan seems to open for breakfast despite not having any breakfast items (to my knowledge at least), so I tucked into a 3 piece combo set. I was let down sadly because I was expecting the chicken to taste similar to back home, since in Hong Kong, Thailand, Malaysia, and Singapore, it is identical to Blighty’s. The Japanese version of KFC I had was very light on the coating and did not have the normally rich taste that KFC is known for, and was no doubt the flavour developed for the more neutral Japanese pallete. I finished it all anyway since I was ravenous from the night before.
I made my way to the station and I think I needed to get to Tokyo station to change on to the Ginza line. Anywho, something strange happened to me at this point because on the train that I got on was a bloke from KFC just a few minutes earlier. Was he following me or was it pure coincedence? I did have some expensive camera equipment holstered and looked like a tourist that day, giving the immediate impression that I was carrying loads of cash (which I was). I didn’t think too much of it and continued with my journey.
Ginza is seen as pure decadence for most people, with equivalents being Regent Street in London, Champs-Élysées in Paris, or Fifth Avenue in New York. You’ll find plenty of luxurious brands and boutiques that are all too happy to separate you from your hard earned cash. As I left the train, I noticed that the guy from KFC had also gotten off. Of course, it could have been completely innocent and he may have also just wanted to visit Ginza. Anyway, not leaving anything to chance I opted to get out of the station ASAP so I went for the nearest exit and camped out in a branch of Lawson for 10 minutes or so. I didn’t see the guy tailing me anymore and after an iced tea and a cigarette, I assumed I was safe to go about with my business.
So far, my general thoughts on the cleanliness of Tokyo were incredibly positive, but Ginza just seemed leagues ahead. The pavement was wider than usual and there’s not a single bit of litter to be found, which is odd given that there were also no bins either (a rarity for most of Tokyo at that). I swang by a record store, which had apparently been trading in Ginza since 18-something-or-another. The new Oasis album, “Dig Out Your Soul” had come out that day, almost an entire week before the rest of the world, so I plumped for the Japanese version with bonus tracks. The price wasn’t bad at around 2400 Yen (about £12) for the normal edition and 2900 Yen for the limited DVD edition. I had considered attending the Shibuya Tower Records midnight launch the night before after Disney, but I don’t think I would have survived. I was now looking for the flagship Apple store that was a few blocks ahead. On the way there, I saw plenty of exclusive brands like Gucci, Prada, Dunhill and so on hawking their wares; this really was the place to go if you have a platinum card burning a hole in your wallet or purse. There were also plenty of officials asking people to refrain from riding their bikes on the pavement, as well as providing helpful advice to the public.
I finally made it to Japan’s flagship Apple store but despite its status, was actually rather quiet compared to stores elsewhere around the globe that are normally heaving, all day long. Not terribly surprising given that you could probably find a better deal in Akihabara or any other electronics store, with the only real reason to visit being warranty issues. I’ve already touched on the Japanese retail experience being one which is very helpful and efficient, with staff being extremely knowledgable in their fields. Whilst for nations like the UK and the US, Apple’s style of retail is seen as first class whereas in Japan, it is very much the norm. The design of the store was a bit odd compared to other flagship stores because it lacks a glass staircase, instead replacing it with an elevator which is constantly going up and down, visiting each floor. There is a discrete stairwell to the back should one wish to exercise themselves. There were a total of 5 floors, with the 1st and 2nd being retail, 3rd being Genius and iPod bars, and the 4th a presentation theatre. The 5th was staff only it seems, but the way the wifi network was setup is identical to that of the UK’s stores, so I was able to connect my iPhone up for some wireless action, huzzah! I was tempted to pick up a Japanese Apple USB keyboard but decided against it when trying to use an iMac threw me off completely. Another thing which struck me was how American the store was despite operating in Japan. Like Jim-bob’s photo of the Volkswagen dealership in Yokohama, the Apple store interior was typical cookie-cutter fare, down to the merchandise they stock from third parties. Compared to Yodobashi Camera or other similar stores in Japan, there just isn’t enough variety which is what the Japanese crave, according to Jimbo.
I crossed the street on to the other side and popped into a department store (can’t remember the name sadly) for a stroll around. I am delighted to see that Japanese department stores are exactly that, catering for most areas of retail in one nice package for consumers. Most department stores in the UK now lack a true sports section, a toy section, and a food section, yet they’re plentiful in Tokyo and the rest of Japan based on accounts from several sources.
After a whistlestop tour of Ginza, I decided it was time to head to Roppongi. Again, can’t remember the line I went on yada yada but I got there in one piece. I had heard alot of rumours about Roppongi, more so than any other part of Tokyo, so I was curious to see how much of it was fact and fiction. Roppongi has the largest population of gaijin due to various ex-pats and a number of foreign embassies being based there. Roppongi has a bit of a reputation for being a bit seedy and a lot of my gaming buddies who have visited Tokyo always rave about how easy it is to pick up girls at clubs in this part of town, with Gas Panic and Lexington Queen being popular courting grounds. As I stepped out of the station, it was immediately apparent that I was somewhere a little different. The atmosphere and appearance of Roppongi had many parallels to London’s Soho and it was definitely the dirtiest part of Tokyo that I had seen so far. Saying that though, just adjacent to this part of Roppongi is Tokyo Midtown, which has received some major development in recent years, and along with the Roppongi Hills area, it makes for an odd mish-mash of an era from the financial crisis Japan suffered in the early 90s, with one of new found affluence.
My visit to Roppongi had several intentions behind it. I wanted to simply visit the area, also I wanted to see Tokyo Tower, and lastly I wanted to see the National Art Centre since they had a Picasso exhibition on. I began by strolling down the main street in Roppongi, passing several seedy looking bars, one of which was named “The Propoganda Bar”, with all sorts of war memorabilia displayed prominently in the second storey windows. There was an abundance of Indian restaurants, as well as Western style cafes, and a rather run-down looking TGI Fridays. I did pass by a little tobacconist and decided to pick up another carton of Mild Sevens; I wasn’t sure if Narita duty free would stop me purchasing more than 200 according to duty free tax laws, so for a saving of 1000 Yen, it wasn’t worth the risk. I was slowly heading towards Tokyo Tower and the walk was actually very pleasant, despite being 1.5km. The weather was a warm 25 degrees and it was the first day of solo exploration for me without rain. I passed by the Russian embassy, as well as an Audi and Aston Martin dealership, and the Disney Channel head office.
Tokyo Tower loomed nearer and nearer, so out came the camera. Possibly Tokyo’s most recognisable landmark, its main purpose is to help broadcast TV and radio signals for networks like Fuji and NHK. Its secondary purpose is of course as a tourist attraction, with two observation decks, several cafes, souvenir stores, and museums contained within. It’s not immediately apparent where you go to get tickets to reach the top, which I felt was bad planning for a tourist heavy place. A whole bunch of strange characters came to greet guests, the strangest of which was this large pink condom in dungarees (he also had a partner in red). I’ve asked several people and they don’t think it’s a condom but if not that, then what is it?? Anyway… The price of admission to the first observation deck is 800 Yen (about £4) and there’s an option from there to go to the ’special observation deck’ for a further 400 Yen if I recall. The price was reasonable but when you’ve been to the top of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government building for free, it gets harder to justify paying for a similar experience. Having said that, the surrounding scenery in Roppongi is more interesting in my opinion than that from the TMG building, so it’s horses for courses really. I spent a good 30 minutes or so in the observation deck, trying to identify all the different sights I’d been to so far. I was able to vaguely make out Disneyland and could clearly see Shinjuku, but everything else was a mystery to me. I opted not to visit the special deck since it couldn’t have offered more, apart from a possibly quieter experience.
I was on a fairly tight schedule that day and was due to meet Jimothy at Shinjuku in the evening, so I had loads to see and do before then. I left Tokyo Tower and made my way back towards the station. I passed a Don Quixote store and decided to pop in to have a goosey-gander. It was incredible! They sold such a wide variety of goods and with it nearing Halloween season, costumes were predominantly displayed at the store front. To describe Don Quixote, I’d have to liken it to a low-brow Woolworths, selling everything from ladies underwear, to fully fledged electronics, all at very reasonable prices. They even sold the Omega watch that I’ve been lusting over, though it worked out slightly cheaper in Akihabara. Don Quixote cemented my thoughts that the Rough Guide to Japan is not a very good guidebook at all. It said that Don Quixote was not the place to get souvenirs for people, but most of the stuff in there was so whacky and typically Japanese that it would have been ideal. Folks, stick to the Lonely Planet guidebook.
I was slowly approaching Midtown and passed by a pet store. I spent maybe 15 minutes just looking and playing with all the puppies and kittens, they were sooo cute! As Jimothy recently blogged, the boxes they put these animals into are tiny and the cost of the average puppy or kitten was around 160, 000 Yen (£800 or so) at this particular store. With a declining birthrate and people jaded by love, it seems animals are the new way for Japanese people to show affection and you can be sure it’ll be capitalised upon.
I needed to find the National Art Centre and here’s my next bone of contention with the Rough Guide to Tokyo – the maps are absolutely rubbish! I got lost in Roppongi for the next hour or so and ended up taking the long, long way around to the National Art Centre. I loved the building design for the museum, resembling something so alien for the Roppongi area. I wanted to get a certain shot of the museum, but the spot I needed to take it from had ‘no trespassing’ signs. Looking around, I didn’t see anybody about so I quickly ran for it, took the shot, and then found 2 security guards (from the opposite buidling) walking towards me! I got a telling off so made my excuses and left as quickly as possible… Entry to the National Art Centre was 700 Yen and was worth every penny. I’m a huge fan of impressionist art and Picasso’s stuff, whilst not strictly impressionism (more cubism) like Monet or Renoir, it’s still more my cup of tea art wise. As expected, it was strictly no photography inside so I holstered my camera away. I spent maybe an hour inside the place, both admiring the art and the interior of the building. By now, it was approaching mid-afternoon and I had to find out how to get to Odaiba.
I headed back towards Roppongi station and I think I needed to get to Shiodame station to transfer on to the Yurikamome line. Again, the joys of a Pasmo card since it meant I was free to hop from line to line, regardless of the company that ran it. Shiodame station was absolutely huge, and I did get lost looking for the platform I needed. The Yurikamome line is more of a monorail than an actual train, and connects Tokyo with the artificial island that is Odaiba. The line is a very pleasant journey, taking you between skyscrapers and various buildings, and travelling alongside Rainbow Bridge. I had two things I wanted to get out of my visit to Odaiba; one, to visit the Sega Joyopolis arcade that Kiyomi recommended and two, to visit the Tokyo Big Site.
I got off the train at Daiba station and thankfully, Sega Joyopolis was right in front of me. It was part of a large shopping and entertainment complex called Decks, which was loosely themed around a beach boardwalk style resort (think London’s Trocadero but much, much nicer). I had a stroll around the place and there was a good variety of stores to peruse and had a ramen as a late lunch. It wasn’t bad at all and hit the spot perfectly.
The main draw of the place was undoubtedly Joyopolis though, with it being rather busy despite the time. There were several options available, with an all-in-one passport offering admission and unlimited games and rides (3000 Yen), or simply paying as you go (500 Yen admission). I opted for the later, due to time restrictions and not being entirely sure what was inside. I did however know that Initial D – Arcade Stage 4 Limited was in operation here. As most of you know, I am a huge Initial D fan. The ‘Limited’ version of this game refers to the fact that it’s more like a simulator, featuring a replica Mazda Rx-7 FD3S, a Toyota Trueno AE86, and a Subaru Impreza WRX STi. The game itself is not affected by which car you sit in, and all operate identically, merely reflecting your movements in the game to correspond with the screen in front. The cost per game was 600 Yen, but I was not allowed to choose which car I wanted to sit in (FD3S). After a queue of about 10 minutes, I ended up with the AE86. Each car is able to also carry a passenger should you wish, and come fully fitted with bucket seats and racing seatbelts. The attendants help you in and out of the vehicles and give you the full safety spiel. The game starts and plays as per usual, also supporting the driving license card facility. I do have a UK card but didn’t bother trying it due to rumours of data corruption. Taking into account the time I played version 4 in London (over a year ago!), the drift mechanics are now very easy to initiate, but harder to master, so I opted to use the FD3S which is understeer heavy. I went with manual transmission, yet everybody before me went for automatic. I also chose to race on Akina downhill, which I know inside and out, and didn’t do badly at all. Overall, it was a very enjoyable experience and one which few Initial D fans will ever get to sample. Concious of time still, I left it at that and wanted to head to Tokyo Big Site.
The exit for Joyopolis lead me to an opening on the Decks complex which faced the rest of Tokyo and Rainbow Bridge. The sun was also just about to set so I quickly whipped out my camera and took as many snaps as possible. This really made my day and I was thankful now that I had gotten lost in Roppongi earlier. I have no doubt that the view would have been even more impressive at night, when all the lights come out to play. According to Kiyomi, Odaiba is a very popular place to go on a date and I can now see why.
I boarded the Yurikamome line again and made my way towards the nearest station to Tokyo Big Site. On the way, I passed another giant ferris wheel which Japan seems obsessed with. There was also some sort of motor show on at a convention centre, with massive queues outside being entertained by mascots. Another unusual sight was a wedding village; not entirely sure whether it’s more of a retail place or a location for weddings but it seemed just as odd as the wedding hotel I saw earlier in Roppongi. Finally reaching the station, there was still a fairly lengthy walk to get to Tokyo Big Site. I felt a bit odd, walking against the tide of people leaving the venue, but I soon lost my inhibitions when I whipped the camera out. It’s truly an impressive piece of architecture, and made me feel somewhat insignificant stood underneath it. I stood in awe of it for a few minutes, secretly hoping that it would transform into a mecha of some sort but sadly, it didn’t happen (I knew I should have made a different wish at Meiji jingu…). Getting that out of my system, I decided to head back to the station and all of a sudden, the lights on surrounding buidlings and the ferris wheel started to switch on! I chose to go on the line all the way to the end and then go back in the other direction towards Tokyo so I could enjoy the spectacle further. It was an absolutely magical moment, just watching the scenery light up as we passed it on the monorail. I was in full tourist mode again, yet none of the surrounding passengers seemed all that interested in what was happening outside. If you’re ever near Odaiba just before dusk, take a trip on the Yurikamome line – you won’t regret it.
Heading back to Shiodame, I had that wonderful walk to contend with. The journey back to Ochanomizu was nothing special, with some people watching filling up my time. I got back to the hotel room and started packing the rest of Jimothy and Keiko’s belongings that I’d brought with me, as well as things I’d need whilst spending the night at their place. I received an email from Jimbo who had finished about 30 minutes earlier than expected, so my leisurely pace of packing and showering turned into a frantic mad dash. I left for Ochanomizu station and hopped on to an express train towards Shinjuku. The crowd was starting to get heavy since it was probably peak quitting time for most people by this point. I quickly met up with Jim-bob at the South exit and we made our way towards a line which I can’t remember.
We were originally meant to be going to an izakaya for dinner with Keiko, but due to a number of things, we ate together at their home. Keiko and Jimothy presented me with the gifts that he’d left behind last Saturday and to my surprise, they had gotten me Revoltech figures of Unit 0 from Evangelion! One was the regular blue version and the other was the yellow movie edition, with grey accents. Both are sat on my desk at home in some ridiculously cool and silly poses, thanks to the crazy articulation on the Revoltech line. Dinner was lovely, with sushi, beef, fish, and okra, one of my favourite rare vegetables (in the UK at least). The beef deserves extra praise, being so much more tender than the British variety. To round it all off, they’d both picked up a lovely chocolate birthday cake for me so it was my second set of candles to blow out. It was such a nice gesture because I’ve never really celebrated my birthday with friends. Sure, I’ve gone out for drinks or a meal but I’ve never had anybody, bar my family, get a cake for me before.
We had a hilarious conversation with Keiko about her day and how dumb Americans can be with their “freedom fries”. Keiko had a fair bit of stuff to do and had to be up early in the morning for work, so Jim-bob and I headed out to two local bars near their place. The first, named the “Rusty Nail”, was your typical old school bar, but with a huge emphasis on its darts facilities. We had a beer each and chatted, and it was nice to just chill out and relax and for me, to have a smoke and a drink at the same time. We noticed that one of the darts players was named “Andy”; Jimothy wanted to know why his name was “Andy” and what he was doing here. However, we reasoned that the explanation would have been too hard to comprehend given that neither of us were fluent in Japanese, so it shall remain a mystery for the rest of our lives. We moved on to another bar where I don’t recall the name. It was owned and run by an American chap with a Japanese wife. His Japanese was fantastic and sounded so authentic, and even communicated with us in Japanese. Some might call it elitism, some might say he was just so absorbed in his element and had no doubt worked very hard to get to that point; didn’t bother me either way. It was a very interesting bar and I personally loved the decor and the atmosphere. We were sat on the couches, though Jimothy would have preferred to have sat at the bar. We had a couple of beers, some sake, and Jimbo had something else, but I was close to fucked by this point so I held back. We also had a fish paste snacky-thing, called ka… something or another (it was a long night). At one point, a guy came into the bar who was absolutely steaming and saw Jimbo and shouted out “good afternoon!”; we corrected him and said “good evening!”, to which he sheepishly acknowledged. Jimothy and I had a good heart to heart talk, and it’s what I miss most about him now being in Japan. It was a bit odd to be in such a situation so suddenly, because leading up to the wedding, I pretty much saw Jim-bob at least once every week, or at least spoke to him in some way or another. Like I said in my bestman speech, he’s one of the few people I feel I can talk to about anything and everything, whether I’m looking for advice or simply an ear to listen to my ramblings. We finally called it quits at about 3am and made our way back to “Leo Palace”, and we saw the prostitute again, though we’re not entirely sure whether she propositioned us or the guy behind.
I went to bed very happy that night, but also a little sad that I would have to leave this magical land so soon. Everything that had happened just made the day so perfect that there wasn’t a single thing I would have changed, except perhaps how much booze I can take.
Photos of the day can be found here and here.
Tomorrow, Jimothy, Chikara, and I hit Yokohama, and join the girls for some yakitori and other izakaya shenanigans.
